>>104682/?
They called it reiving. For three hundred years, cattle-raiding was the mode of production and the cultural bedrock of the Borders. Society split into kinship groups, clans. The Johnstones, the Armstrongs, the Nixons, the Grahams, the Elliots, the Bells: warrior tribes half-gone to savagery. Clan loyalties were absolute. If someone from another clan killed you in some gratuitously gory way, your own clan would march out to do equally horrible things to one of their relatives. The Johnstones liked to decorate their halls with the flayed skins of the Maxwells. Sometimes a raiding party would kill you on the road, cut you into pieces, and stuff you into your horse’s saddlebags, so your family could find you when it wandered home. The main difference between the border reivers and similar clan-based cattle-raiding societies in the Sahel and the Horn of Africa is that the borderers had no institution of diya or blood-money. In Somalia a murderer’s clan can pay off the victims and it’ll end there; in Northumbria there was nothing to stop any act of violence spiralling into a centuries-long feud. In 1600 an Alexander Napier was offered £1,000 for the death of his brother, and refused. ‘All is dishonorabell quhair there is not eie for eie and tuith for tuith.’ Better to die fighting than take the money and live.
Meanwhile, you are also adopting a deranged and stark religion. For a long time, the reiver clans were irreligious to the point of Satanism. In 1525 Gavin Dunbar, Archbishop of Glasgow, issued a ‘Great Monition of Cursing’ on all the border clans, in which he personally consigned you to Hell. ‘I CURSE thair heid and all the haris of thair heid; I CURSE thair face, thair ene, thair mouth, thair neise, thair toung, thair teith. The maledictioun of God, that lichtit apon Lucifer and all his fallowis, that strak thain frae the hie hevin to the deip hell, mot licht apon thaim. I CONDEMN thaim perpetualie to the deip pit of hell, to remain with Lucifer and all his fallowis, and thair bodies to the gallowis.’ This was read from the pulpit of every church in the region; the Johnstones responded by simply burning down all the churches. But in the decades after the Scottish Reformation, the border clans took to the Presbyterian Church and its Calvinist theology with real fury. The world is divided between the elect and the damned; if God has chosen you for salvation there is nothing you can do, however bloody, to change his mind. And while in England the central government will send a bishop to hector you, in the Presbyterian Church religious life is in the hands of local elders. In other words, clan leaders: spiritual authority and kinship structure can finally be bundled into one.
But in 1603, King James of Scotland was crowned at Westminster Abbey and suddenly you are no longer living on the distant edges of two separate kingdoms, but right in the middle of a single realm. There had already been attempts to subdue the reivers, which were generally as violent as the reivers themselves; at one point the Rutherford and Hall clans were both outlawed, which made it legal to kill anyone who happened to have either surname. But from 1609, James finally pacified the borders by simply deporting its population. You were forced onto a boat at gunpoint and sent over the sea to Ireland.
Ireland is spooky. You come from a country that’s been disenchanted by three centuries of tribal warfare, godlessness, and Protestantism, until every place is just a quantity of pasturage to buy or sell or raid, and then you’re suddenly dropped in the land of the hollow hills, inhabited by one of the holy peoples of the world.
Most people are just people. They farm carbohydrates out of the soil; a ruling class expropriates some of it in exchange for architecture; there’s usually some kind of frilly national dress and a thousand-year grudge against the nearest foreigners; that’s about it. There’s nothing wrong with just being people; some just-peoples have been incredibly significant. The Romans were just people, and look what they did. You can think of some others, and you’ll probably be right. But every so often there’s a holy people, who don’t just turn cereal crops into monuments, but were put here to represent an idea in history. The Jews are the most obvious case: at some point in the first millennium BC this group of basically ordinary Levantine henotheists were suddenly seized with the idea that THERE IS ONLY ONE GOD, repeatedly throwing the idea that THERE IS ONLY ONE GOD at the world until it stuck, at which point the world responded by more or less continuously slaughtering us for two thousand years. We could have opted out of the persecution at any point by abandoning our mission and becoming just-people like everyone else, but we wouldn’t. Odd behaviour all round. You get the sense that the Mexica might have been another holy people. Somewhere in the deserts, a tribe starts twitching with the notion that YOU HAVE TO FEED THE SUN ON HUMAN BLOOD, and packs up for the long journey south. Like the Jews, they refused to compromise their idea for the sake of popularity. According to one of their own stories, they came to the city of Culhuacan on their travels, where they offered to make an alliance with the local king by marrying his beautiful young daughter to one of their gods. She will be our queen and our sovereign; we will be her people. The king accepted; the Aztecs gave his daughter a beautiful dress, and crowned her head with flowers and iridescent feathers, and daubed her with perfumes, until she was ready. By the time the king arrived for the celebration, an Aztec priest was already dancing in the flayed skin of his daughter. Her body had been opened in a single line from the bottom of the neck down to the top of her pubic mound. The Mexica were chased out of the city in a hail of javelins, out into the swamps, to live alone with their holy mission.
The Celts are another holy people, but their idea is much stranger. It says that THERE IS ANOTHER WORLD VERY CLOSE TO THIS ONE, POPULATED BY PEOPLE WHO ARE LIKE US IN SOME WAYS AND IN OTHER WAYS MORE DIFFERENT THAN WE CAN POSSIBLY IMAGINE, AND THERE ARE PLACES WHERE THE BARRIER BETWEEN WORLDS IS THIN, AND SOMETIMES THINGS PASS THROUGH.
They are very insistent about this, but you don’t learn much about what this place is actually like. All you get are glimpses. ‘Though fair to the eye Mag Fáil, it is a desert next to Mag Mór. Intoxicating the ale of Inis Fáil; more intoxicating by far that of Tír Mór.’ Another name for the Great Plain is Tír na mBeo, the land of the living. But you get there through graves: the Neolithic burial mounds left by the people of that other world back when they were still the kings of Ireland. The inhabitants of the beautiful land are the Sídhe or the Aos Sí, the folk of the burial-mounds; their home is earth-clotted and lightless, underground. Sometimes, for reasons we can’t understand, they wander into this world. Which is what happened to a widower called Cruinniuc: one day, a beautiful and ethereal woman simply turned up at his house. She slept with him without saying her name or where she’d come from, and the next day she started keeping his house and looking after his children. Cruinniuc must have known she was one of the Aos Sí, because when King Conchobar of Ulster was showing off his horses, Cruinniuc boasted that his wife could outrun any of them. So Conchobar had him arrested, and told the now heavily pregnant woman that he’d be killed unless she agreed to race the fastest horses in Ulster. She begged the king to let her wait until after she’d given birth; he said no. They lined up in a grassy plain: one massively muscled horse, foaming at the mouth and steaming in the cold, and one red-faced woman, bent over with twins. But she could; she could run faster than the fastest horses in Ireland. She won the race by the breadth of her belly, and as soon as she crossed the line she suddenly collapsed to the ground to give birth. In her agony she cursed the onlookers: for nine generations, every month all the men of Ulster would experience the pains of childbirth for five days and four nights.
Which is why, when Queen Medb of Connacht invaded Ulster with a great army, the country was almost undefended: all the warriors were at home, having birth pangs like women. The only exception was Cú Chulainn, who also had some strange connection to the other world. Once King Conchobar and his daughter Deichtine were out hunting a flock of magical birds that had flown in from the other world and laid waste to the fields of Ulster, when they found themselves in strange country with the snow coming down. They saw a light in the distance: a house, which looked fantastically bright and warm in the growing darkness. The man of the house welcomed them and offered them meat and ale, and they ate and drank while his wife screamed from the storehouse, giving birth. After the child was born she was exhausted, so Deichtine nursed the baby. Then, when they woke up in the morning, everything was gone. No warm beds, no warm fire, no host or hostess, and no house: they had been sleeping on the cold ground, under the open sky. But the baby was still there. Deichtine raised him, and when he was still a boy he became a great killer of men. The things the Tuatha Dé Danann leave here are brighter and grander than the world around them, but also monstrous. When Medb attacked the pang-weak country of Ulster, and Cú Chulainn had to fight off her armies alone, he sometimes went into a ríastrad or warp-spasm. Like a transformation from a children’s cartoon. Knees would snap and bend backwards, cheeks melt away to reveal naked wide-open jaws, one eye sinks deep into the skull, the other rolls down the side of his face, until the beautiful youth had become something alien, insectoid, segmented, slaughtering with invertebrate efficiency, tearing men’s heads between his mandibles…
The Celts have the greatest literature in the world. Nothing comes close. It’s baggy and rambling next to the Arabic tales and emotionally flat next to the Greek epics and crudely amoral next to the Itihasa-Purana, but the Celts were working with something else entirely. Maybe it’s not a coincidence that it was the Irish who saved classical civilisation from the collapse of Rome. St Columbanus crossing the great grey sea, twelve quivering monks and a stack of books in his boat, come to teach the victorious barbarians how to read. I think it has something to do with that invisible other world. A space of consciousness extended beyond direct concrete experience: in other words, the same thing you can experience through storytelling, which conjures invisible scenes in which the material substrate of reality is replaced by a polymorphous flow of words.
But you are an illiterate Prod, and for you it’s all very unpleasant. This wet and misty landscape stretched like a drumskin over something else, drawing its energies from something else, these brooks and forests that are the entranceway to somewhere else, the invisible world of the mind. The country is perforated by thousands of holy wells, water bubbling where some Catholic saint struck the ground or laid his head, and whenever they pass these wells the Irish say a prayer, or tie a strip of cloth to a nearby tree, or drop a votive stone into the waters for—well, who? The saint’s not down there. What are they talking to, that’s living underground? This place is against you; every second you spend here is a war against the stones and the sky. The government that sent you here in chains is now your only ally against the evil of the earth. Your slogans are the slogans of a people under permanent siege. ‘No surrender!’ Every morning you have to get up and hack away at the vines, beat back the mossy forests, stop up the holy wells, level the hollow hills, fight one native revolt after another, the old Catholic gentry with all their powers of darkness and superstition, the priest-riddled hectoring, the Jacobites and their mystic tyranny of kings: you have to wash this soil in blood until it’s all flat and empty, a nice passive instrument for turning sunlight into carbohydrates and carbohydrates into architecture. Which seems like an impossible task at first. But every year the old powers of the earth get a little weaker, and eventually you’re building steelworks and linen works and the biggest shipyard in the world, assembling vast iron machines in the half-real land of the Aos Sí.
You didn’t ask to come here, but you end up inhabiting this land for three hundred years. Against all the odds, you create a thriving, civilised, prosperous society in this place. The magnates and capitalists were Prods, but so were the majority of the workers who caulked and tarred and hackled and fettled and built the world with their hands, piece by piece. But now we’re in the first decades of the twentieth century, and the same people who deported you here are now preparing to abandon you. Home Rule for Ireland, which means handing over the whole island, everything you’ve worked so hard to build, to a bunch of brigands and murderers who hate you. As soon as that happens you’ll become a troublesome religious minority, no longer protected by the state—in fact, utterly loathed by a new, militant state that sees you as an instrument of their oppressors. Hard to say exactly what that would mean, but historically people in this situation tend to get rounded up and shot. You were born on this land. Twelve generations of grandparents are buried here. What would you do?
Belfast is very nearly a normal British city. It feels a lot like home; it’s got all the familiar shops. Here’s the Tesco. Here’s the Pret. Here’s the mysteriously hideous town centre. Everywhere in this country apparently needs one, but Belfast’s is uglier than most. Lifeless jumble of glassy blocks and grotty commercial units, scattered between wide windswept roads with too many lanes. A few pockmarked old neoclassical buildings, still standing shellshocked in the middle of it all like a pensioner in a crack den. By the river there’s the former industrial area they’re trying to redevelop with warehouse-style exposed-brick housing units. To the south there’s the parks and posh Victorian houses and the regional Chinese food. But west of the town centre, just outside the ring road, where there really ought to be a bunch of former slum terraces now riddled with small plates restaurants, you instead find yourself walking into an endless maze of suburban-style semis. Barratt homes, Deano boxes, the cheapo mass-produced houses that have been crapped out into the outskirts of every market town in the country. But what are they doing here?